Our exclusive workmanship constitutes one of the highest expressions of a working method unique in its particularity. The result of an emphasis upon quality which was able to put together the innovation of the net and an absolute fidelity to the procedures of the ancient artisanship tradition. And it is precisely the constant oscillation between these two poles that allows the production of specifically tailored creations such as Your shirt.
I'd like you, too, to be able to appreciate this creation as much as I do, observing the smallest details which make your shirt a work of art:
1.- 'English-style' sleeve and side seams: despite the name, it's an Italian development; the operation is carried out in two separate phases
with two distinct, single-stitch seams, not in a single phase by a machine with two needles, as is usually the case in industrial productions
with the aim of accelerating labor time, and thereby lowering costs - sacrificing, however, a strong, soft seam against the skin.
2.- "Attached, reinforced" collars and cuffs: this operation, too, is carried out in two distinct phases with two separate seams. Collars and
cuffs are usually produced with a single seam which doesn't permit perfect ironing and often results in a wrinkled appearance, whereas it is important that they be as smooth as possible so that the shirt always appears fresh and immaculate.
3.- "Trocas Australia" buttons - diameter 16 mm, thickness 3.5 mm: buttons are of genuine, natural, Australian mother-of-pearl, the finest quality currently available on the market. The thickness of 3.5 mm is obtained by utilizing only the central and thickest portion of the shell.
This raised button has been chosen to give the shirt greater value, as well as facilitating closing. It furthermore prevents the button 'snagging' on the thread and subsequently hanging loose.
For the same reason, the collar, where the fabric is heavier due to the internal lining, is provided with a button 2.5 mm thick.
4.- Seamwork with 8 stitches per cm: for every cm of seam there are 8 sewing machine needle "strokes" (the higher the number of stitches per cm, the greater the resistance of the seam and, therefore, the quality of the finished product).
5.- Removable collar stays: the collars are provided with two small openings in which the stays are to be inserted in order to maintain the shape of the collar points. The stays are removable to avoid damage at high temperatures during washing.
6.- Centering of fabric pattern: a quality shirt can also be recognized by the way the pattern is aligned along the seamwork (see: pocket, sides, points of collars and cuffs, etc.).
7.- Inside of collars and cuffs: current anti-pollution laws have substantially changed fabric-finishing processes, and while they have resulted in benefits for the environment, the stability of materials in the course of daily washing is no longer guaranteed. In order, therefore, to avoid fabric shrinkage, it is now essential to utilize suitable reinforcing elements inside collars and cuffs, thereby preserving form and dimension - this too, is a choice which reflects a commitment to quality.
8.-
Yoke:
the
yoke has no visible stitching front or back, and the outer piece of cloth is
cut on the vertical, which allows for more comfort
9.-
Inserted sleeve;
to
keep the shirt from riding up when moving your arms, the armhole has to be
relatively small and high. He finished sleeve, with all side-seams closed,
is then inserted and sewn into the open armhole, ensuring a smooth
transition at the point where the body and sleeve seams are joined. (The
standard practice employed by other shirt makers, is for the side body seams
and the seams of the sleeveto be sewn together in one continual operation,
starting at the "butterfly" and continuing to the cuffs. To do this, the
armhole needs to be deep and pointed, which results in bulkym overlapping
seams)
10.-
Butterfly:
a
small triangular piece of cloth is sewn to be finished shirt at the bottom
of the body side seams, strengthening the bond between the front and back
panels.
11.-
Button hole;
rounded at the top. A small detail but necessary
12.- Monogram: a shirt of distinction comes with hand-embroidered initials positioned slightly under the pocket area, thus rendering it exclusive and personal; it attests to the taste and style of the person who wears it...
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